Ko Phayam: A wildly, incredibly, stunningly beautiful Thai island

Before I began this journey, I planned out rough routes through the regions I was planning to visit, and I had provisioned that after the excesses of Koh Phangan, I would need something  a little sobering and serene. I had heard rumours (by which I meant I’d read blogs) about a beautifully wild island where hornbills glide between the palm trees, and sea eagles hunt in the seas, where the beaches are superb and yet also superbly empty, and the sea views spectacular.

This was Koh Phayam.

It did not disappoint.

It was quite simply one of the most beautiful places I have ever set foot, and the large number of photos that are included in this post are a drop in the ocean to the number I have. I felt like I had stumbled upon a desert island off the cover of National Geographic, and felt compelled to photodocument everything.

But before we get to the island, i should recount my journey to the island, as that it is also a story worth telling.

Koh Phayam sits at the edge of the Andaman Sea, which is part of the Indian Ocean. Koh Phangan, where I was previously, sits in the Gulf of Thailand, which is eventually part of the Pacific Ocean. Lying between them was two boat rides, and a 140 mile bus journey. The only way to avoid an overnight stop on the mainland was to take the night boat from Koh Phangan. I, ever eager to experience novel transport options, happily chose the night boat, where everyone communally sleeps on the upper deck in the open on mattresses.

My first view as I climbed aboard. 

It was surprisingly comfortable, and as I was a smelly tourist, no one slept on the beds either side of me, which allowed me to spread out somewhat. It was wonderful to fall asleep watching the stars pass by overhead (through the slanting window) whilst being rocked by the ocean.

We pulled into the mainland port of Surat Thani at 05:30, and I then spent the next three hours being collected, stored, distributed, and then redistributed around the city, as the ferry companies and bus companies swapped and organised their customers. Eventually, I was dumped at the local bus station, handed a ticket, and pointed towards a minibus.

Minibus ride was rough, as I was wedged in the back of the bus with the parcels and packages, which meant no leg room. The poor wrapped crate of seafood under my seat meant no air either. I'm glad it was only a short five-hour bus journey.

Upon reaching Ranong, the port on the opposite coast, I was whisked by motorbike to the ferry terminal, where I found a cafe, sat in said cafe, and refused to leave said cafe for over an hour, as I just wanted to eat food that did not come from a packet, and coffee that did not come from a can.

The ever-trusty port cafe.

I had missed the slow boat through my obstinacy, so I had to pay a little more for the speedboat. However, I believe it may have been the first speedboat I have ridden on (Mum may correct me on that though), so it was money well-spent.

Soon enough, I was speeding out of the estuary of Ranong, and into the island-studded waters offshore.

I was far from sure which island was Koh Phayam, as we continued to weave between the islets and islands scattered along the border between Myanmar and Thailand. Eventually, the nose of the boat became firmly pointing at a jetty on a approaching island, which i correctly guessed was our destination.

Ah, there's my island.

Possessions strapped to my bag, I jumped onto the pier when we moored, and headed off in search of a sandy chalet to call home for a few days. 

Not bad for the price of a coffee and cake in the UK ;)

I eventually found this cute little bungalow for just 250B (£5) per night, which I thought was a very good deal, especially considering this was the view I had when I woke up.

Pretty!

Bed sorted, and bags dumped, I walked back into the diminutive main town with my camera in hand, hired a scooter, and went off to see just how beautiful this island is.

Cue photos:

A particular highlight was sitting on a beach in the north of the island, and watching sea eagles swooping and playing on the winds over the bay.

The island was just spectacularly wild, and I loved my two days on the island, which I split between exploring the island's ghostly beaches, and sleeping in my hammock, and it was one of the most relaxing periods of my travels.


However, I do not believe I could have spent much more than two days on this desolately stunning island. 


The island just felt too lonely and remote. I made up a whole third of my hostel's inhabitants, and there were no staff on-site. Most chalets and bungalows were closed along with their associated bars and restaurants due to the approaching monsoon season (as you can see in some of my photos, the weather was stormy and changeable for much of my stay). There was only one restaurant in the main town open, and only one cafe during the day which served drinks. I was the only person on most of the beaches I walked.


The island was beautiful, but it was lonely beautiful, and while I was thankful for the few precious days I spent on the island, I was equally happy to leave and find some company and drinking partners on the mainland.

The view on my last morning on the island. 

Goodbye lonely Koh Phayam

DSP



Useful Information:
Getting to Koh Phayam:

• Transport options are usually available from any tourist centre in southern Thailand, if not directly to Koh Phayam then to its mainland port Ranong, to which buses run from Krabi/Phuket, Surat Thani, Chumphon and Bangkok.
• The ferry terminal is around 7km from the bus terminal in Ranong, and so you need to take either a motorbike taxi (50-100Bp.p.) or a sorgnthaew (20(?)B) and then take a short walk from the main road to the terminal.
• The slow boat to the island takes two hours and costs 200B. The speedboat takes under an hour, and costs 350B. Schedules vary according to the season, but they ran until after 4:00pm at least.

Accomodation & Transport:

• I paid 250B per night for a beachfront bungalow which was walking distance from the pier. I did not haggle at all, and I feel I probably could have got it for cheaper if I had tried, but I was very happy to be honest.
• If you want accommodation on the bigger, more beautiful beaches, it would be wise to hire a scooter in the main town just up from the pier, and use a scooter to reach your bungalow or resort (if you have bags that allow you to do that) as there is no public transport, and transfers are overpriced.
• Bike rental cost me 150B, and he did not even ask to see a passport. However, the bike was fairly crappy.
• The roads network is limited, and the road surfaces are very, very poor in places. Do not attempt to reach your hostel by scooter unless you are a confident driver. In places they just push bricks and planks into the mud, and that acts as a motorbike route.